Monday, August 19, 2002 -- Seattle to Ketchikan, Alaska

Mom and I flew to Ketchikan this morning. When we arrived in town, there were four cruise ships docked in town, one of which is currently the largest in the world (2800 passengers, with 2500 staff). Does this really sound like a fun activity to anyone? They completely block the view of the channel from town, and the tourists practically double the size of the town for the hours the ships are docked. By early evening, most of them have gone, so at least it is possible to enjoy a sunset over the channel. Immediately after settling into our room at the New York Hotel, had lunch at Annabelle's, in the Gilmore hotel. I seem to think of Annabelle's as an oasis. Last time I was in Ketchikan--when I had four hours on a ferry stopover, and walked about four miles in probably four inches of rain to see the Totem Heritage Center--I stopped at Annabelle's for a lovely meal. I had been tired, and sort of woozy (either from being on the boat, or because much of Ketchikan is on fill land or even on piers, or because I had some kind of inner-ear thing going on, I've never been sure), and I was of course quite damp. The food is good and the atmosphere cozy, and at lunch the menus are printed on replica 1927 newspapers, which is when Annabelle's opened (quite elderly by Alaska standards).

This time, we weren't wet (Ketchikan is going through a drought, and has had "only" something like 60 inches of rain as of August 1), but we were very hungry and rather tired from the flying. Once again, Annabelle's lived up to my image of it, and we left feeling completely restored. After lunch, we walked along Creek Street (which was next to our hotel), and then all over town, ostensibly "looking for the boat." If you knew my mother, this would make sense to you, but she basically wanted an excuse to drag my butt all over town, and used this as a (flimsy) excuse.

View from Ketchikan

Finally, I convinced mom to walk where I wanted to go, which was the Totem Heritage Center. The Center is a partnership between Alaska Native bands and the city of Ketchikan to acquire and preserve old (mostly over 100 years) poles from Haida and Tlingit villages. Traditionally, after a pole was erected, it was never repainted, repaired, or otherwise maintained. New poles were always created for new events, and the old ones would eventually fall and deteriorate in the wet. These old poles were made by master artists, and there is something to be said for keeping some of those works viable. The poles still belong to the ancestors of the artists or the people who lived in the villages where they were found. Most Native American or First Nations bands had difficulty preserving their artwork, language, and traditions over the years, especially when the national governments restricted or banned these activities (Canada banned Potlatches and related activities for years, so these skills survived only underground).

Group of figures at Totem Heritage Center,
including eagle and bear (on right)

More photos from the Heritage Center

After taking pictures in the Heritage Center, mom and I walked back through City Park, past a salmon hatchery, and into town, following Ketchikan Creek the whole way. We saw a ton of salmon spawning, of various species, including humpy (pink), chum, coho, chinook. We think. We're not really experts on salmon breeds.

Salmon, all pink on the way to spawn

After appetizers and sunset at Steamer's on the waterfront (once the cruise ships finally left), we decided to see "The Bourne Identity" at the local theater, and then went to bed in our very cute, 1920s hotel.

Tuesday, August 20, 2002 -- Ketchikan

Ate breakfast in the New York Cafe at our hotel, and then walked two and a half miles (plus) out to Saxman Village (there is a live camera on the Alaska Native Heritage Center web site). Some of the poles here were also rescued from villages; others are newer. I had never made it out there before, so it was fun to see. We ended up talking to a woman whose husband is Cape Fox Tlingit, and who was participating in the dance demonstrations in the big house on the site, along with her son. She had a beautiful button blanket in progress for her son to use in the dances.

Group of poles at Saxman

Detail on one of the Saxman poles

More photos from Saxman Totem Park

I wanted to take the bus back to town, and was quite whiny about it, but eventually we walked the 2.5+ miles back to town. By the time we arrived, it was a true relief to take the funicular up to the Great Western Cape Fox hotel for lunch and a reading break in the lobby. The hotel has a nice view of the harbor, which only got better as the ships pulled out (are you sensing a theme? I'm sorry, but those things are just huge!). I walked through Creek Street while getting my book from our hotel, and did my one bit of shopping, and bought some coffee from the Ketchikan Coffee Company (in truth, I mostly like the labels, which I think are designed by Ray Troll). There were good tee shirts there, one of which I considered getting for Jamie's birthday, but since I don't have his new address, I guess it's just hard cheese for him.

We walked down the "Married Man's Trail" from the Cape Fox hotel. It is a trail that leads to Creek Street, Ketchikan's notorious red light district, so I'm guessing you can figure out how it came by its name.

Oddly, I spent a good part of the day answering questions for tourists. I guess that means I look like a local? I followed my parents' philosophy, and always gave them an answer.

We had one more snack at Annabelle's (some sort of pre-dinner, post-lunch meal) before taking the ferry back to the island on which the airport is located to meet the Na'walak, our home for the next 10 days (see the Emerald Isle Sailing Charters web site for more information on the boat and the trip). We motored out of Revillagigedo channel in sunset, and anchored at Mary Island, getting a little jump start on the trip.

Na'walak, coming to pick us up in Ketchikan

Moon Rise on the way to Mary Island

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last modified: September 4, 2002